Military Clothing Systems

Over the past decade, we've finally been seeing the military take notice and adopt some of the advanced technology/high performance fabrics and clothing that civilian mountaineers and backpackers have been using for quite a while. Lighter, more compressible, breathable, quick drying and wicking fabrics now clothe the soldier, doing their part to make a tough job a bit more efficient and a bit less uncomfortable. Clothing the soldier presents a unique challenge as temperatures in certain regions may range greatly over a 24 hour period, or missions might start off at low altitudes and end up much higher. Soldiers most often have to be self-sufficient, carrying everything in their rucks and on their person, so light weight and clothing versatility rank high in importance. Unlike most sporting events, the soldier might have to wear the same clothing for days or weeks on end, and subject them to abuse that civilian use won't.
There are quite a few different clothing development programs out there, and it can be confusing. Since I have no personal knowledge on the subject, I've summarized some of the info from Polartec® literature and other sources like the U.S. Army programs website. I've given credit to the sources of information where possible, and if there's any violation of website policies, webmasters please let me know. Polartec® manufactures much of this high-performance material, and their website is a wealth of information, so please visit it for details. This list is by no means all-inclusive - there are a LOT more programs out there, but I've chosen those that are relevant for this website.

3/2/05 - SEKRI stands for South Eastern Kentucky Rehabilitation Industries and is a "non-profit organization whose primary purpose is to provide qualified personnel, facilities and related services for persons with disabilities, enabling them to obtain and to be successful in maintaining competitive employment". SEKRI manufactures Levels 1 (bottom wicking layer), 2 (added warmth) and 7 (water/wind resistant high loft insulated) garments of the SOF-PCU multi-layered cold weather system. All items are can be ordered directly from SEKRI online here.

PCU Level 7 Loft Garments - Level 7 is the warmest of the PCU clothes, meant for extreme conditions. SEKRI's Level 7 Loft garments are fully insulated, water and wind resistant, breathable and washable. The shell is constructed of the same lightweight alpha green/grey EPIC® nylon (called 'Praetorian', a 2.8oz fabric) by Nextec, as the Orc Ind. Level 5 soft shell. Nextec uses their encapsulation process to encapsulate the individual fibers of the fabric with silicone-based polymers to provide all-weather protection without coatings or laminates. Note that Epic® Nylon is water resistant, not 100% water proof. For use in wet conditions, the Level 6 Wet weather suit is recommended to be worn over the Level 7.
The garment linings are quilted and insulated with Primaloft® 5 oz. Sport fibers. Primaloft was developed for the U.S. Military as a filling for sleeping bags and clothing. It is a down-like insulation that has the lightweight compressibility and warmth of down, but also works when wet, as Primaloft's individual fibers are water repellent. Primaloft is highly compressible but quick to regain its loft. Primaloft Sport uses ultra-fine and multi-diameter fibers for water resistance and retention of loft, resulting in a water resistant, breathable, fast-drying and lightweight filling.

PCU Level 7 Loft Jacket - The SEKRI Loft jacket shown below is of a medium-length, hooded parka design. The front zipper is a YKK water resistant coil type with plastic splash guard. The removable zip-off hood is also fully insulated and quilted, with an elastic shock cord opening adjustment. It attaches behind the 3" tall collar. Both the jacket and hood are lined with soft, ripstop nylon material. On the front are two slanted slash pockets, with water-resistant zipper closures. The pocket openings are further protected by a flap to prevent water from dripping into them. The sleeves have elasticized cuffs. Inside the jacket are two large mesh pockets. The bottom of the jacket hem can be tightened around the hips with the elastic shock cord drawstring. The tops of the shoulders have Epic 'Glacier' (5.8 oz) non-swish material patches for abrasion resistance when wearing a pack.

Level 7 Loft Jacket

Side and rear views

Hood removed and showing front slash pockets

Inside of jacket showing mesh pocket

PCU Level 7 Loft Pant and Vest - The matching Level 7 Pant is also completely constructed of Epic® Nylon with Primaloft Sport insulation. It has a zipper fly and heavy duty snap waist. The waist is elasticized but also has velcro tabs on each side for adjustment. The pants don't have any pockets. The sides of the legs can be fully zipped open (actually, completely unzipped at the top), for ease of donning or a bit of ventilation if partially opened. The pant legs are pre-curved at the knee to better match the anatomy of the leg and bend more easily. The bottom of the pant leg cuffs are elasticized and have a velcro tab that protects the zipper.
The Loft Vest is a simple half-zip pullover design. The 14" zipper opens wide enough that donning and doffing isn't difficult, but I inquired about SEKRI making a full zipper opening design to increase versatility, which they're looking at. The vest is worn to keep the body core warm, if the extra bulk of the Loft Jacket can't be carried or isn't needed. There is a single, slanted opening, mesh-lined pocket over the left chest.

Level 7 Loft pant showing side zipper

Front and Rear views

Level 7 Loft vest

Collar open

Rear view

These garments are surprisingly easy to move in, despite their loft. I would have thought them to be more restrictive than they are. One minor nitpick (and it applies in general to most smooth nylon garments, not just these) is that they Epic® Nylon fabric is 'swishy' (might be because they're new) and might be of a concern to those who need stealth. The sound is most apparent when the inside of the thighs rub past each other when walking. On the shoulders of the jacket are two panels of Nextec® Glacier fabric that are different from the rest of the Epic® Nylon. It's a less 'swishy' sounding material. If SEKRI put a panel on the inside of each leg, from the crotch to the bottom of the knees, I believe this would really help in alleviating the noise. The 'swish' is a problem common to most smooth synthetic materials; that's why hunters wear silent fleece clothing when hunting.

Despite their 'loft', these garments compress quite nicely (one of the main features of the Primaloft® Sport insulation). I was quite surprised to find that I was able to stuff both the jacket with hood, and pant into the Kifaru back pouch shown below. The whole suit can be carried attached to the outside of your pack in a relatively compact package.

The jacket and pant will stuff into...

...a Kifaru back pouch

4/23/05 - Vancouver, BC, Canada-based Arc'Teryx is a well-known name in the outdoor world, producing the latest, high-end outdoor clothing, gear and accessories. Up till only a few years ago, military clothing technology has usually been a step behind what's been available on the civilian market. It makes sense that leading manufacturers of 'technical' outdoor clothing are entering the military market but it's more complicated than just producing civilian clothing in 'military' colours. The Arc'Teryx LEAF (Law Enforcement and Armed Forces) Purchase Program makes special versions of their product line available to military and LE professionals.
Side note: Arc'Teryx's logo is the fossil (actually, the Berlin Specimen found in 1877) of the Archaeopteryx, the prehistoric animal that looked like a bird, yet also had some of the features of a dinosaur/reptile. There's controversy over whether Archaeopteryx was the first bird, a reptile, or a transitional species, but in general, Archaeopteryx is viewed as a 'first of its kind' and a symbol of evolution. A good choice, symbolizing one of their mottos - 'Evolution in action'.

Bravo Jacket - The Bravo Jacket shown here in black (also comes in crocodile and foliage green), is a weather-resistant, lightly insulated soft shell. The Bravo Jacket is based on a commercial style, the Gamma SV Jacket with the addition of sleeve pockets and internal pockets to the LEAF version. The Gamma SV is the jacket that started the softshell revolution in the outdoor industry back in 1998. Thousands of these have been produced since, and it remains one of Arc'Teryx's best sellers. In combination with the Gamma Salopette, it was one of the original garments ever made with PowerShield®. Arc'teryx and Malden Mills worked together to commercialize this fabric. So the Bravo jacket really is still the original softshell, updated.

Constructed of Polartec® Power Shield ® and Tweave® Durastretch® ( pockets), the exterior of the fabric feels similar to the Bravo Pant, except that it is laminated to a thin insulating layer of fleece on the inside. A DWR finish provides water-resistance. Note that the DWR (water repellant treatment) will have to be 'renewed' after some time, just like Goretex, with a spray-on or wash-in treatment. As with the Bravo pant, the tight weave of the fabric is highly wind resistant, but not completely wind proof, as air can still be forced through. The Bravo jacket is designed to be worn alone, or with a light base layer. It combines the insulation of a light base layer with the protection of a soft-shell layer into one compact, quiet garment.

Front view, open

Front view, zipped up

Rear view

The brushed-lined 3" collar closes with a one-way zipper. The rubberized front/felt-backed storm flap behind it is folded over at the top to form a soft chin guard. The bottom hem of the jacket can be tightened using the shock cord drawstring with pulls on each side.
The pockets on each shoulder are actually quite spacious - approx 8.5"x7". The zippered opening is 6" long, with the zipper being laminated, not sewn, to the fabric. Since the fabric stretches, you can fit quite a bit in the shoulder pockets, if you really need to. The compartment of the slanted hand pockets on the front/side of the jacket are 12" tall, 6" wide at the bottom and 5" at the top. When closed, the metal portion of the zipper is covered by a piece of fabric (this is what is referred to as the 'zipper garage'). The silent pull tab is a length of cord, with rubber heat-shrink over it. They're easy to find and pull when wearing gloves.
The two interior 9"x6" pockets are laminated to the chest wind-panels with laminated zippers.
The brush-lined cuffs rely on the elasticity of the fabric to keep them snug - no velcro tab closure or extra elastic needed.

Shoulder, hand and internal pockets

Detail of interior front

Cool logo

Like the Bravo Pants above (an most other Arc'Teryx designs, I'm finding out), it's a very streamlined design, with very little to snag or get in the way. Much of that is due to the low profile of the pockets. Even when full, there are no flaps or bellows to catch on anything. The jacket shares the high 13-stitch per inch count as the pants, conveying the same impression of quality and neatness.
The cut is athletic, with enough room to fit over my Level 1 and Level 2 long sleeved shirts, but is a tight fit over my Level 3. If you plan to wear it over a thicker base layer, or if you're bulkier than I am and prefer a looser fit, get the next size up. The medium is an optimal fit for me, personally (see my measurements at the top of the page). I'd recommend any base layers to be form fitting and not too baggy or you may experience bunching under the arms. It'll also serve well as a mid layer under a hard shell for more extreme conditions.
On a week-long trip, I found the comfort range to be in the high 50's to mid 70's with a short sleeved t-shirt underneath. The breathability of the fabric prevents it from getting too muggy under normal activity, but obviously if you're going to exert yourself, you're going to sweat, no matter what the temperature is. I really like the stretch fabric. Did I say this already? It makes a huge felt difference when comparing it to similarly sized and cut non-stretch garments, which move over you rather than move with you when you change positions. Arms have full range of motion with no binding or tightness in the shoulders or back. I wish all my clothing could have some elasticity to them. Especially around the waistband after a meal.
Overall, the Bravo jacket is a very functional design and one of the most comfortable jackets I've worn (and it looks good, too). I made use of all the pockets on a recent trip and even when loaded up, it still retained its streamlined profile.
5/16/05 - This has become my most-used jacket, as it's prefect for cool mornings and evenings, and it looks smart with it's fitted cut. It just MAKES you look good. As close to the perfect all-round soft shell you can get. My wife really wanted one like it so I purchased the civilian version - the women's Gamma SV for her.

Combat Jacket - Shown below is a prototype of the Combat Jacket, done up in 50/50 NYCO MultiCam material treated with silicone by Epic® so it's water resistant. The material of the production model will be the same durable and lightweight Tweave® woven nylon of the above Bravo pant. The Combat Jacket is envisioned as a techincal alternative to the standard BDU top. It's more hard wearing, weather resistant, abrasion and tear-resistant, and more versatile. A similar-looking pattern to the Bravo jacket seen above, it differs from it by not having the fleece insulation and different pockets and minor features. The Combat Jacket is designed to be more form fitting than a BDU top, as the stretch fabric allows unrestricted freedom of movement. A full-length front zipper closure is backed by a rubberized storm flap, with a soft, felt-like backing on the reverse side. The storm flap is sewn over at the top of the collar to form a zipper chin-guard for comfort. The 2.5" tall collar can be worn up or folded over, and is lined with soft, non-chafing chamois.

Front view, open

Front view, zipped up

Rear view

Pocket locations

Drawcord bottom hem, mesh pockets and velcro cuff closure

Combat jacket in the field

Two mesh side-entry pockets with zipper closures are located at waist level. On each shoulder/upper arm is another pocket, with a vertical, zippered opening. It's non-pleated, but easily offers enough room for a pair of flight gloves. One thing I'm noticing with Arc'Teryx clothing is that they're very streamlined and 'smooth' designs with very little to snag. You may not even notice the pockets except for their openings, but they can hold more than you expect.
The bottom hem forms the channel for the shock-cord drawstring. Rather than let the ends of the drawcord hang below the bottom of the jacket and create a snag potential, the ends are thoughtfully captured by a vertical channel of fabric along the main zipper. The cuffs are adjusted with slightly rubberized velcro-backed tabs - simple, durable and elegant. It's not curently available, but will be in the near future.

I wore the combat jacket out in the desert during a shooting trip instead of my Crye Field Shirt, with my STRIKE gear over it, and appreciated its streamlined, low profile. It was very comfortable to wear with gear with the minimum of bulk underneath.

8/23/08 - It's been about three years since we first saw the prototype Arc'Teryx Combat Jacket from the LEAF (Law Enforcement and Armed Forces) division of Arc'Teryx in Crye MultiCam, and now, the production version is finally available. The Combat Jacket has been available in black and crocodile, but the development of the softshell MultiCam material is what took so long. The Combat Jacket was designed with comfort and versatility as the driving design factors, and is constructed with Arc'Teryx's signature quality and workmanship that have all the other companies playing catch-up.

Material - The Arc'Teryx Combat Jacket is constructed of Tweave Durastretch fabric, which is a technical stretch woven with 92% nylon and 8% lycra spandex. Durastretch is a durable, abrasion resistant, water and wind resistant, low-bulk, breathable fabric with excellent stretch and recovery properties. The Multi-directional (4-way) permanent-stretch spandex has 100% memory for shape retention. The Tweave Duratretch used for the Combat Jacket is not laminated to a lining fabric - it is a single layer material (like the Bravo pants). It is designed more as a breathable shell for wind and moisture resistance than an insulating soft shell. This means that it can be used in warmer temperatures, and is very packable. It'll compress down into the same size as a BDU top.

The DWR coating used on the Combat Jacket is the Schoeller NanoSphere DWR coating, which is water resistant and slick to the touch, even though the fabric is textured. Water beads up on the surface and it doesn't wet out when soaked for long periods. The nanoparticles in the NanoSphere finish form a fine structure on the textile surface. Water or substances such as oil or ketchup simply run off the NanoSphere surface which is naturally self-cleaning, and any residue can easily be rinsed off with a little water. The NanoSphere coating has a high level of abrasion resistance, and the protective function is retained even with heavy-duty use. The jacket therefore requires less frequent washings at lower temperatures (wash resistance is up to 100 washings). No fabric softener or dryer sheets are to be used.

Front, collar closed

Collar open

Rear view

Pit zips

Handwarmer pockets

• Stand-up collar - The stand-up collar is almost 3" tall, and provide protection for the front and back of the neck without chafing or discomfort. It is lined with very soft, brushed fabric. There's a small 1.5" x 3/4" loop velcro patch on the back of the collar for a small IR patch.
• ID label - inside the jacket is a white ID label for writing your name inside with a permanent marker (partially visible below under the collar tag).
• Full front zip - The full front zip has an interior wind flap for added protection against the elements. The rubberized material is soft on the back side and folded over at the top to form a chin/neck guard.
• Pit zips - These are something the prototype Combat Jacket didn't have, and are really nice to have for ventilation. The underarms are gusseted for unrestrained motion. The zipper pulls don't have cord attached to them, for a lower profile, but can be a bit small to grab with gloves on to close. It's easy to add 550 cord if needed. To make the opening wider, you can just open the zipper by widening the opening with your fingers.

   

Collar details

Pit zip closed

Pit zip open

Upper arm pocket

Upper arm pocket open

Upper arm pocket

Sizing, fit etc - The Combat Jacket has what Arc'Teryx refers to as 'athletic patterning', which I usually take to mean 'form fitting but unrestrictive' - maybe with a bit more room around the shoulders and chest with a slimmer waist. It feels like it has a slightly more generous cut than the Bravo, with more space in the arm area. As expected, it's a very comfortable fit on me, being relatively form fitting without an excess of material to bunch up under a rig or another jacket. The seams are all flat for comfort under a ruck.

General notes and thoughts- As mentioned in the prototype writeup, the Combat Jacket was envisioned as a technical alternative to the standard BDU top in cooler conditions, but more hard wearing, water and wind resistant, abrasion and tear-resistant, and more versatile. It can be worn alone like a BDU top ( over a thin base layer/t-shirt) or as part of a layering system. It's no more bulky than a standard BDU top, so it can be worn under other jackets if need be.

Warm weather - I can see the Combat Jacket being a great alternative to a standard BDU top in cooler conditions, but what about in warmer weather? Being made of soft shell material, I fully expected the Combat Jacket to be a lot stuffier than your standard 50/50 NYCO or 100% cotton ripstop BDU top. Being the end of summer at the time of this writing, with warm and sometimes more humid weather, I gave the Combat Jacket a try in 75° weather. Anything about 70° is t-shirt weather for me, and no matter how you look at it, a BDU top is going to be warm in temperatures above 70°.

I alternated the Combat Jacket with a BDU top and did some mild exertion (slow jog in the hot sun) to get me sweating. A few things stood out for me. The first was that much to my surprise, I didn't feel that the Combat Jacket felt any stuffier than a BDU top. Yes, I was hot and sweaty, but that was to be expected no matter what. The single-layer, uninsulated Tweave fabric doesn't seem to trap perspiration any more than a BDU top. The second thing that stood out were the huge pit zips. This made a big difference as a BDU top's only ventilation is through the open collar. If I was moving, I could feel some airflow through the jacket. The third thing was that when I got sweaty, the BDU top started getting soaked with sweat and sticking to my body and arms, as it normally does. When I moved my arms and extended them above my head, the BDU top would feel restrictive as it'd stick to my elbows and fore arms, and was completely non-elastic. The Combat Jacket on the other hand, doesn't absorb sweat and stays drier. It's not a wicking material and relies on evaporation and its breathability to transport the sweat away. I didn't feel like it stuck to me as much as the BDU top, and the elasticity of the Tweave made it completely non-restrictive in any position. So, I could raise my sweaty arms above me and move without feeling the top bind. If you have to wear a long -sleeved BDU top in warmer weather (for whatever reason - camo, protection etc), I don't think the Combat Jacket feels any less comfortable (to put it conservatively).

Wet environments - In wet and cooler weather, this is where the Combat Jacket will have a distinct advantage over a standard BDU top. Bear in mind that the Tweave is not water proof, but highly water resistant. The DWR sheds water and it'll take a while for the material to let water through. When it does get wet, however, it dries much faster than a BDU, and doesn't hold as much water weight. If you've been immersed completely in water with BDUs, you know how heavy and sluggish waterlogged BDUs can feel when you come out of the water dripping wet. The single-later Tweave Combat Jacket will feel lighter and dry much faster. Another thing to consider is that the camouflage pattern on the Tweave material does not darken as much as a BDU when soaked. When BDUs get soaked, the pattern often gets so dark it's barely discernible and doesn't disrupt as it should. Plus, there's often a reflective, wet sheen on the BDU material just out of the water. The DWR on the Tweave beads up the water and keeps the sheen to a minimum. Look at the photo below of a 50/50 NYCO Crye BDU top sleeve next to the Combat Jacket sleeve. Both have been immersed in the sink with water the same time. The BDU sleeve has soaked through and the pattern darkened. The Tweave one looks pretty much the same underwater as it does dry.

In summary, I believe that the Arc'Teryx Combat Jacket is fully capable of performing its intended role as a technical replacement for a BDU top; especially in cooler and wet environments. The single-layer weave fabric is thin, breathable and light enough to use it in warmer environments and it'll be no more uncomfortable than wearing a BDU top. It's uninsulated, so it can be layered over or under other garments. A base or mid layer is recommended for more warmth.

The last comment I'd like to make is on the level of quality, technology and workmanship that Arc'Teryx puts into their garments. I mentioned this a few years ago about Arc'Teryx and from what I can see, they're still the one for other companies to catch up to. It's evident when you look at the details. All the stitching is tight and straight, all seams and ends are finished without loose threads all over the place. Out of all the jackets that I have, the Arc'Teryx ones are the only jackets that are as well finished on the inside as the outside. Arc'Teryx is also an industry leader in utilizing new technology and methods in garment manufacture. Some companies are coming close, but Arc'Teryx still sets the standard (based on those that I have had experience with, of course).