Inside - The main compartment has an elastic mesh hydration pocket and a zippered compartment for the HDPE frame sheet. The framesheet can be removed from the compartment, but I can't see there being a need to as it's so unobtrusive and lightweight. The frame sheet provides support and shape for the back panel and is stiff enough to distribute some of the load to the waistbelt. The mesh hydration bladder should fit most sizes - shown here is a 100oz camelbak omega bladder. A die-cut Hypalon hose port is sewn into the top of the pack. The main compartment has a drainage gromment at the bottom.

The outside compartment/pocket is surprisingly roomy, and covers the front of the pack. It's access via a 12" zipper on the right. When the pack is worn over the right shoulder, the front compartment can be easily accessed by swinging the pack around. Being a lefty, I wish the compartment had an additional zipper on the left of the pack for dual-side access.

The four side compression straps keep the contents stable and can also be used for lashing a jacket to the side of the pack. I discovered that they are spaced perfectly for the dock 'n' lock attachment of a Kifaru long pocket, as shown in the photo on the right.

I recently used the Charlie pack as my only bag for a 2-night trip on a domestic flight. It was completely stuffed, but fit without problem into the smaller commuter-plane overhead bin. Coincidentally, as I was waiting for my flight, a Marine walked by with the ILBE Marpat version of exactly the same pack on his back.
On my trip, I was at the range shooting a variety of weapons and wore the pack while running around and shooting from different positions. It didn't get in the way at all, and felt comfortable and stable on my back. It's a super little pack and I really like it a lot - which isn't surprising as I've been very impressed with all the Arc'teryx items I've come across. They always seem to have the right balance of good looks and functionality.

Inside - All the 5 pockets/compartments on the Blade 21 are accessed from the right side of the pack. It was designed so that the pack can remain on the right shoulder, be swung around to the front, and all compartments accessed without having to set it down or take it off completely. Great when walking or on the move. All zipper pulls are 550 cord.

Top pocket - this is a smaller pocket located on the top of the pack for small items like keys, phone, notebook, snacks etc. It measures 8" wide at the bottom and 6" at the top, and is 7" tall.

Accessory compartment/organizer - This is located on the front of the pack, and measures 6" wide and 10" tall. It's meant to be accessed when the pack is on its side, like all the other compartments, so the slot pockets are naturally horizontal (when the pack is vertical). Inside are two slot pockets - one wide enough for a PDA or Blackberry, the other for a multitool or flashlight. The other 3 slots are for pens. The pocket is roomy enough to hold additional items like small notebooks etc.

Medium pocket - just behind the accessory pocket is a medium pocket, 9" wide x 9" tall.

2nd main compartment - The '2nd main compartment' is the outer one, and measures 11" wide, 16" tall and 3.5" deep.

Main compartment - The main compartment measures 11" wide, 17.5" tall and 3.5" deep and will fit most 15.4" laptops. The two main compartments are separated by sheet of nylon fabric, which is actually slightly oversize so that either compartment can expand into the other. You can therefore have two approximately equal-sized main compartments, each about 3.5" deep, or put everything into one compartment that's about 7" deep in the middle (less on the sides where it's connected). This feature is great for segregating flat items, yet accommodates more bulky items like jackets. To illustrate what kind of bulkier items I could fit into the main compartment, I took the photo below with two standard small .30 cal ammo cans in the main compartment.

Frame sheet - The HDPE frame sheet is removable via a zippered opening in the main compartment. A single 7075 aluminum stay in the middle provides rigidity. The frame sheet gives the back of the pack its shape, and also insulates the user from hard objects (laptop) in the main compartment. The aluminum stay is pre-bent to match the shape of the back. I didn't feel a need to change the bend - it was comfortable as-is.

The photos below illustrate the relative size of the Blade 21 pack, and how the compartments are accessed by bringing it around to the front when hanging off the right shoulder.

Observations and notes - The LEAF version of the Blade 21 differs in the details from the commercial offering. It's made of 725d cordura instead of ballistic nylon, has a webbing side handle instead of a molded one, and different zipper pulls. Other than that, it's essentially the same pack, designed as a bookbag or laptop backpack. Its streamlined profile and shape makes it suitable for travel, and the top and side handles make it easy to grab or retrieve from overhead bins or from under seats on planes.

The main compartment holds a 15.4" laptop with room to spare, but might be a tight fit for a 17" laptop (I didn't try one). Since I don't normally carry a laptop, I carried manila folders, a binder, notebooks, magazines, day planner (yes, I still have one) and other items in the Blade 21, which kept them well organized. I rode my motorcycle with it and found it stable enough even though it doesn't have a waist strap/belt - the sternum strap is sufficient. For everyday, around town use, I think that a waist strap is unnecessary, and unless it can be removed or stowed, it usually just hangs down from the pack. So, in this particular design and what it was intended for, not having a waist belt is a plus.

Although it isn't designed primarily for hiking, the Blade 21 can also be used as a small daypack; a light jacket, water and snacks are easily carried in it. It doesn't have any port for a hydration tube although I suppose you could route it out the top of the main compartment.

Another thing I like about the Blade 21 is how the back panel is contoured to the shape of my back by the frame sheet and aluminum stay. The frame sheet prevents the sides of the panel from pulling away from the back when the pack is full, or has something bulky or oddly shaped in it. Some packs, when stuffed, tend to bulge out in the middle of the back, like a football. With the Blade 21, the back panel contour remains the same, and that's one of the reasons why it feels stable - it feels like it's hugging my back rather than just sitting on it.

The Blade 21 is a great little pack for the 'office on the go', general every day use or as a carry-on bag for travel. If simplicity in design is what you prefer, rather than a pack covered in webbing and pockets, this might suit your needs.

Inside - The PP has a single main compartment, access by the main zipper which extends about halfway down each side of the pack. There are no internal compartments or divisions inside the pack. At the top and bottom, are four 1" straps with ladder locs. I was puzzled as to what they might be used for, and was told that they are for lashing/stabilizing a particular radio (or radio pouch) inside the pack. Vertical distance between the top and bottom tie-downs is about 13" and horizontal spacing is 5" between them.
There is also front/bottom access via the semi-circular opening in front that at first glance, looks like an external pocket. Why bottom access for such a small pack, I wondered. Nothing's likely to get lost. Eagle explained that it's there for access to the bottom of the radio - buttons or battery compartment without having to remove the radio. Also, to gain access to items below the radio.
It's possible to use the top straps to suspend a hydration bladder or sleeve inside. I also found that a Kifaru chamber pocket fits perfectly for a bit of internal organization.

The shoulder straps feel pretty comfortable when the pack is worn alone with a medium load (20 lbs). Lack of a sternum strap doesn't bother me as the shoulder straps stay put. However, when worn with a vest or armour, a sternum strap could come in use to prevent the pack's shoulder straps from slipping/walking to the outside, as they often do when worn over a rig's shoulder straps or armour. I made my own simple sternum strap as shown below:

For the sternum strap, I used a short length of 1" webbing, an ITW Ghillietex slotted buckle which I installed on one of the shoulder straps, a common loop which I split with a pair of pliers to install on the other shoulder strap, and an ITW metal slider to secure the end of the webbing (a plastic tri-glide can be substituted).

If you're looking for a pack with lots of internal organization and compartments, the FSBE II isn't it. For civvie use, it'd do fine as an EDC pack if you don't need any organization, or a dayhiker that you'd use to throw few larger items in, like a windbreaker, water, some food and essentials in without the need to segregate small items. Organization can be achieved by adding external pouches.
For someone in the military, this pack can be used to add a rear plate to a front plate-only rig, like the Eagle Rhodesian chest rig, and provide the access to the items inside the pack that a non-removable pouch attached to the back of a rig doesn't. All in all a very simple, well built pack.

Frame - The Kelty-designed lightweight aluminum frame is constructed mostly of 0.75" diameter bent/welded aluminum tubing with what looks like a powder-coated finish. It's very lightweight and stiff. The frame slides into the sleeve on the back of the TREC, providing a rigid platform/shape for the entire bag. Without the frame, the bag functions like a soft duffle. Overlapping velcro flaps at the bottom secure the bag to the frame. At the bottom corner of the frame are four semi-circular gussets which strengthen the L shape of the frame greatly and protect the sides of the wheels like little wheel wells. The frame can be used as a stand-alone dolly, but the gussets will prevent some items from sitting all the way in.
The wheels/rollers are 4" diameter urethane roller-blade types, and are the smoothest rolling luggage wheels I've ever seen. If the wheels or bearings ever go bad, they're replaceable by popping off a cir-clip and pulling out the full-width stainless steel axle. There are also plastic skid pads at the bottom front of the frame.
The frame (only) max dimensions are: 36.5" height, 17" width and 10.5" deep.

Compartments - The rundown on the compartments of the TREC-W/P are as follows:

• Main compartment - The main compartment measures 35.25" x 16.5" x 12.5" (all are seam to seam lengths), for a volume of 7270.5 cu.in. As shown below, it's long enough to carry an M4 with 16" barrel and longer-than-standard Crane stock. It's also deep enough (12.5") for the weapon to 'stand up' along the side, even with optics. The big, C-shaped opening allows better access to the inside than a zipperdown the center opening would. The open flap stays out of the way.
• Large side pocket - The single large side pocket measures 31.25" x 11.5" x 3" with a volume of 1078 cu.in. It's just long enough to fit the rifle - the pocket will deform to fit the 33" rifle even though the seam-to-seam measurement is 31.25". This was just shown for size reference; since the pocket isn't padded, I'd stick a rifle inside the main compartment where it's better protected.
• Side pockets (2) - The two side pockets measure 14.375" x 11.5" x 3" with a volume of 496 cu.in. each. These are approximately the size of large 3-ring binders, which will fit inside with room to spare. The zippers open halfway down the sides of the pockets for unrestricted access to the contents inside.
• Top pocket - This is a 12" x 8.5" flat pocket with zippered opening.

For illustrative purposes, I put some bulkier pieces of gear into the TREC-W/P, shown below. Inside the main compartment is a Crye Armoured Chassis, Blast belt, ballistic helmet, Crye combat pants and shirt, 6004, Revision Eyewear hard case and an M4. There is a lot of extra space left over in the compartment, as you can see. In one of the side pockets is a pair of size 9 Lowa Desert Seeker boots - it'll fit a larger pair of boots.
The TREC can be loaded up with more weight than a normal gear bag without a frame. Being able to roll it along is just a pleasure compared to slinging a heavy gear bag over the shoulder, even for a short distance. Just watch that lower back when you lift it to load it in a vehicle, or better yet, get a buddy to help using the well-positioned grab handles. Im getting older, and my back tweaks more easily than before, so I really have to be more careful about that kind of stuff.
So, if you want something to carry your loadout in (tactical) style without breaking your back or bank, consider the TREC series of Eagle bags.

Inside - The F.A.S.T. pack is more of a panel loader than a top loader, with the main compartment being accessed via the front panel which zips open halfway down the pack body. The front panel has a spacious outside zippered pocket and inner mesh compartment. Both are about 10" X 10" in size. Water-resistant YKK zippers are used for the main compartment and outside pocket which help protect the contents from moisture. I found the metal zipper pulls noisy, so I cut them off and replaced them with para cord.
Inside the top of the pack is an internal organizer, useful for small items like notebooks, pens, etc. It's organized into four pockets. A key clip on a strap is also sewn to the top of the pack.
The hydration sleeve/compartment is a full-width sleeve (11"); much wider than most bladders, and a bit too short at only 11" deep. I stuck a 100oz bladder inside and it'd always end up to one side. The compartment has a loop under the internal organizer for hanging bladders with a hook, but for bladders that lack hooks, they won't be supported very well or stay centered. The solution, however, is to suspend the bladder without a hook from the loop with a snap link or grimloc biner (as pictured).

The relatively streamlined, 'turtleshell' profile of the F.A.S.T. pack is apparent in the photos below. It rides high on the back, and does a good job of conforming to my build. As mentioned before, the waist belt is for stability, not support. The side pockets fit USGI 1-qt canteens perfectly - the side compression straps should go over the nalgene bottle for added security. I strapped an M4 to the pack using the transport tail and compression straps, and found that it worked as advertised. I'd use a couple of extra straps 'just in case', in addition to the compression straps, though. My only concern for heavier rifles or loads is that it puts the c.g. of the pack further away from my back. I'd probably strap a rifle to the side instead, and use the transport tail for light loads like a jacket or poncho liner. In the beaver tail role, it's very quick and convenient. I'd limit the total load to about 35 lbs for the pack - more than that and I'd recommend a pack that has a suspension to distribute the load between the shoulders and hips.

In summary, the TAD F.A.S.T. pack is a well constructed day pack that's relatively comfortable and low profile, with some interesting features, something that I'd use it in place of my Becker.

I didn't take any photos of the Gen II worn by itself because it looks pretty much identical to the Gen I in overall size and shape. I did show how the new transporter tail stock slot works, though. You can see that the M4 stock is completely enclosed and secured by the tail straps.

TADGear has done a good job of listening to user input on the Gen I and implementing changes/upgrades in the Gen II F.A.S.T. pack. Usually when an improved, 2nd generation item is introduced to the market, it's priced the same or a little higher than the item it replaces. Instead, the price of the Gen II is significantly less than the Gen I! That's something we don't see too often.

The top of the bag has a full sized flap opening, with zippers on each side. A 550 cord loop connected the zipper pulls and is pulled to open or close the flap. The end of the flap also secures with velcro. A 9" x 3" portion of the flap is covered in loop velcro for velcro-backed patches if need be. There are also 3 rows and 2 columns of PALS (and 2" wide webbing) for the attachment of a small MOLLE or belt loop pouch.

Inside - The main compartment is padded with foam on the front and back panels, as well as on the sides and bottom. The inside lining fabric is a little bit loose, so I'd have liked to have seen it more taut, or maybe laminated or sewn down in some places. Inside, at each end of the main compartment is a slot pocket, 10" tall x 5" wide (shown below holding two M4 30-round mags). At the bottom of the main compartment is a strip of loop velcro, to which the removable divider/pistol attachment panel secures to. The padding in the bag gives it some shape/rigidity - it's not a soft, floppy bag.

The removable panel is covered on both sides with loop velcro and measures 14.5" x 11". It's very stiff, and will support the vertical weight of a pistol and loaded magazines. It's supplied with a pistol strap and two elastic looped magazine/light holders, all of which can be positioned anywhere on the panel. Each elastic loop holder has three slots and will fit three magazines.

• Two front outer pockets with velcro flaps - these are the ones on each side of the smaller ones in the middle. They measure 6" x 3.5" x 1-3/4". A 30-round M4 mag will fit in there - actually two will, but then the lid won't close. A PDA will fit in there.
• Two small pockets in the top middle of the bag - the one on the left is 2.5" (tall) x 2" (wide) x 1.5" (deep) and the one on the right is 2.5" x 1" x 1.5". What fits in these little pockets? I was able to put a Petzl Zipka headlamp in the left pocket and AAA, AA or CR123 batteries in the right one. A single flap with velcro closure covers both these little pockets.
• Below the small pockets, a 4.5" x 3" x 1.5" pocket that fits most compact digital cameras.
• A 'secret' front flat pocket - most people won't notice it's there unless pointed out. It's 12" wide x 7.5" tall and will fit any large-frame handgun. You can also fit one or two magazines (of the paper type) in the pocket.
• One each side of the bag, a large radio pocket - both of these have an adjustable tab with shock cord to secure the contents and allow radio antennas to stick out. There's no flap covering the pockets but the shock cord passes through a grommet in the side of the main compartment and can be shortened or lengthened via a cord lock inside and almost close up the top of the pocket. The pockets measure 6" high x 5" wide x 2.5" deep, but can conform to rounded items, like the Nalgene bottle shown here.
• Zippered opening pocket on the back side in the middle - 8" x 5" x 1.5". This one also has a 6" x 3" loop velcro ID patch on it. This one's good for keys, wallet, etc
• Below that is a 10.5" x 2.5" x 1.5" long, slim pocket. I used it for a laptop power cord.
• Two pen slots on the left of the upper zippered pocket, and a flashlight slot to the right of the pocket (I've shown my folding knife there).

Inside - As mentioned above, all the compartments are on the outside of the BOB. The interior is lined with soft polyester which provides some padding and protects the contents. A stiff divider velcroes inside the compartment and can be positioned anywhere, as the velcro sticks to the liner. The divider has an extra flap which can be opened to divide the main bag into three compartments.
The shock cord adjustment for the side radio pockets is accessed from the inside, as shown in the photo below.

Using it - When we first got the BOBs, my wife and I used them as airline carry-on bags which we stowed under the seats. They're not so large that you're going to load them up too heavy, but roomy enough to carry quite a bit of stuff. My wife carries her laptop, books etc. It's too small for large 3-ring binders, but I was able to fit a 11.5" x 11" x 2" binder inside. It's a size that will see a lot of every day use, and it's a very good value for the price.

Pockets and compartments - The organization this bag has is its best feature, in my opinion. I'm going to start at the 'front' of the bag, and work my way to the 'back'.

• Two front pockets - these are both 9" wide, 11" tall and 3" deep with two-way zippers. There's a 5" x 3" loop velcro patch on the left front pocket for patches.
• Admin pocket - this is a full panel pocket measuring 18" x 14". It hasn't got any depth, but it obviously can accomodate quite a bit. The admin panel has 6 pen slots, and ten staggared slot pockets varying from 3.5" to 6.5" in depth. The slots are 4.5" wide. You can put cards, notebooks, cell phones, radios, flashlights etc in the slot pockets.Behind the admin panel is another flat compartment (the one with a magazine shown in it).
• Main compartment - this measures 18"" long, 8" deep and 14" tall. It's pretty roomy and I put my compressed sleeping bag in there, along with all my clothes on a trip. I've shown it below with two ammo cans and a pair of Lowa boots, with room to spare on top of them. The front panel has 4 rows x 13 channels of "PALS" webbing for the attachment of internal MOLLE-compatible pouches. The spacing between rows is non-standard, so it's not mil-spec PALS, but that doesn't really matter, as there isn't a need to weave MOLLE straps in and out of every row for internal pouches. I found it sufficient to run the MOLLE strap trough the top and all the way to the bottom without weaving. It's quicker and works fine for an internal pouch. On the back panel are two large mesh pockets with zippers (iilustrated with a magazine inside below). Each one is 9" wide and 14" tall (12" to the zippered opening).
• Large back flat pocket - this pocket measures 18" wide by 14" tall, and is meant for flatter items. I've illustrated it with two magazines side-by-side in it.
• Large back pocket - this is an 18" wide by 12" tall by 3" deep pocket. Like the main compartment panel, it has 4 rows X 13 columns of "PALS" 1" webbing for attachment of MOLLE-compatible pouches. I'd have liked the bag to have stiff inserts in the PALS panels to support the weight of pouches, but that would add to the cost of the bag, and isn't really needed when it's full.
• End pockets - at each end of the bag is a zipper-closed 8" wide x 11" tall pocket for small/flat items.

Using it - This bag offers a lot of organization/compartmentalization, which I really like for separating different items. Of course, if you don't need such organization and only have a few large items, then a duffle might suit you better. The ability to add specialty-sized MOLLE pouches is a plus, although it's got enough compartments that I haven't yet needed to add internal pouches. It can be used to carry additional MOLLE pouches for a rig, ready to interchange out. It's lightweight for a 'largish' sized bag, and so far, seems tough enough. Visit CountyComm's photo gallery for more photos of this bag.

Inside - Inside the outer panel is a large mesh compartment. The opening has elastic and it's closed by a flap with velcro. The flap can be tucked inside the compartment if desired. On the opposite inside are two compartments. Each is about 7" tall x 6" wide, and pleated. A small velcro patch closes them, and a pull tab is provided for easy opening. Taller items will just stick out past the top. Each compartment fits 2 M4 30-rnd magazines perfectly. At the bottom of the bag is a grommeted drain hole. It has a piece of webbing sewn over it, to prevent too much dirt from entering, while allowing sand and water to drain. Inside each top corner is a 550 cord loop for dummy cording items to. Also provided are small Scovil snaps. I don't have anything that uses these size snaps, but CountyComm said that they're meant for snap-in dummy cords, which they'll have at a later date. I'd have picked standard size snaps instead, or a small plastic snap hook to make it more universal.

Using it - I looked around to see what common item I could fit inside the EOD bag to give the reader a size reference. I found that a common U.S. military 200 round 7.62mm ammo can in the main compartment plus four M4 30-rnd mags in the two pockets fit inside it with room to spare. It's a tight fit for 8.5" x 11" paper or magazines, but if you don't mind dog-ears, it'll carry them. I found that it's the perfect size for everyday civvie use as it's large enough to carry what I need, but not too much larger than I need. With two double M4 mag pouches on the outside (see left photo below), it makes a great range bag for mags. 8 M4 mags on the outside, 4 more inside in the two pockets, handgun and mags in the mesh pocket and rifle/handgun ammo in the main compartment plus hearing protectors and it's good to go. At the price it's offered at, it's a very good value.

County Comm also sent out the MPCC (Multi-Purpose Carrying Case) which is shown below attached to the shoulder strap of the EOD bag. It's meant for their small GP-4L short wave radio. It'll fit items about 4" x 2.5" x .8" like small radios, call phones or i-pods. It has a soft, plush, padded interior to protect the contents. A simple velcro flap closes the case. There's a small opening at the top/back to pass an earphone wire through. In front of the main compartment is another pocket for business cards or the frequency list of Armed Forces radio stations. It has a tri-flap attachment method for horizontal carry on belts or straps up to about 2.5" wide. The three flaps overlap and are extremely secure - it's not coming off what it's attached to. There's a 3/4" wide piece of webbing on the rear flap which can be used for vertical carry on a 2" belt, but it's secure but not stable, as it tends to pull the flap open. It's primarily meant as a dummy cord attach point so it doesn't get lost in a pack. For a civvie like me, it makes a great pouch to put on pack straps for my compact digital camera or cell phone.

The Razr case on the right is slightly larger than the MPCC case. It was sized for the Motorola Razr phone, but fits other small items or electronics (sized not more than 5" x 3" x 1") that might not fit into the MPCC case.

The cover measures 40" x 15" x 13" for a volume of about 6500 cu.in. All seams are taped, and there are two daisy chains on the outside. There are two elastic shock cord drawstrings - one for the main opening around the back, and another at the bottom. The cover is large enough to fit over the Kifaru ZXR shown below, with room to spare. The shock cord is cinched up and covers all of the pack except the back panel, shoulder straps and waist belt. In wet weather, given enough time, water will always find its way and soak into the fabric from the exposed shoulder pads, hip belt and back panel (when water runs down your back). But, the OR Gear cover will keep the rest of the pack dry, and slow down the 'soaking' process considerably. In the photos below, the lighting makes it look lighter than it is. The photos above are a better representation of the true colour.
If you're hiking in inclement weather, the pack cover would be a good item to bring along. You can also sit on it or store other items on it on wet ground.

Items inserted into the gray loops are held quite securely by the exposed rubber on the base. They not to hard to pull out and provide just the right amount of resistance. The black loops rely on tension to retain the items and for heavier things like rifle mags, two panels might be needed if vertical orientation needs to be kept. However, these are designed for use inside bags, so the black elastic is more than adequate to prevent a rifle mag from shifting around in a compartment - it doesn't have to support its weight fully. When loaded up, the panels remain flat instead of pulling away from the attached surface at the ends. I've shown a panel in use above in the front pistol compartment of an EMDOM TNT bag.

They do add a bit of thickness over non-stiffened velcro loops, but only about 0.25". Very nicely made and they work advertised. If I had one concern, it'd be about the longevity of the gray elastic. After storing mags in the loops for a week or so, it lost a bit of its elasticity and loosened up a bit along the edges. Still retains the mags, though, plus the black elastic is there as 'backup'. The MSM Loop Panels are sold in pairs.

I must also mention MSM's wide array of custom patches either designed or drawn by MSM himself. He's quite the graphics whiz. They've proven to be very popular and he's got a wide selection. All are embroidered and have velcro backings.

Main compartment - The main compartment zippers extend about a third of the way down each side, so it doesn't open out flat. At the rear is a slot pocket with two rows of elastic sewn to the front. The top row has a large loop and a medium loop while the bottom row has three medium loops (for multitools, folding knives, pistol mags etc). On the other side of the compartment are two rows of elastic, with the top and bottom row configuration reversed from the pocket (large loop on bottom row). The main compartment will expand quite a bit to hold bulkier items.

If I were to change something on the Stealth, it would be to extend the main compartment zippers halfway down instead of a third (and move the side webbing down or ditch it), so that I could get better access to the inside. Using elastic instead of slot pockets sometimes requires two hands to insert an item, especially if it's to be held snugly. With slot pockets, you just shove the item down. With elastic, one hand has to hold the elastic open while the other inserts the item. With both sides of the main compartment filled up, access can be a bit cramped and would be easier if it opened wider.

Inside main compartment

Front compartment

On Arc'Teryx Charlie pack

I have more use for a utility/admin pouch on a pack than on a vest, which is why I put it in this section vs. 2nd line gear. I've no doubt that others who use admin pouches on a vest or body armour would find the Stealth pouch to be well made and able to organize smaller items very well. I mounted it to the front of my Arc'Teryx Charlie pack, which itself doesn't have much organization for smaller items. There, it looks like it was made for it.