Overall quality and material looks better than the standard Colt 4-position stock and is very well molded. It also fits more snugly on a mil-spec buffer tube so there is the minimum of rattle. It's also a good looking design.

It came with two accessory tubes and two 'cheek weld' tubes. I chose to mount the accessory tubes on it. Each carbine tube will hold 1 DL123 and 1 AA battery (for a total of 2 DL123's and 2 AA's).
My only complaint about it is that the accessory tube caps need to be redesigned IMHO. They had sharp edges which I rounded out with sandpaper, and are difficult to remove. The cap plug has a rubberized surface for better sealing, and after I put a bit of silicon oil (non-harming type for rubber/plastic) on them, the caps installed and removed much more easily. They still need to be redesigned, and also tethered like the caps on an Aimpoint Comp M (Eric tells me that he's aware of the difficulty in removing the caps, but there are tradeoffs between making them easy to remove and having them fall off accidentally. Perfectly understandable and a good point). Having the compartments mounted on the sides provide a more comfortable place to rest your cheek as it has a larger, flatter surface area. The 'teeth' that the accessories lock into cannot be felt on the cheek. The holes in the rib at the bottom of the stock are meant as a 'chassis' for attaching future accessories. It was designed from the outset with a modular nature.

The bottom of the butt plate (as you can see above) is angled inwards, which I feel is an improvement over the standard stock. It feels better on the shoulder, and is also taller than the standard butt plate. I installed the optional butterfly latch in place of the standard one. It's just as easy to operate and less prone to accidental disengagement.

The uncle mike's QD 1-1/4" big button sling swivel attaches in the silver hole on the stock. It's mounted a bit low (could make rifle prone to flipping over depending on sling type used and if it's CQB or patrol carry), but there's really no where else to put it. Mounting the accessory tubes on the side partially covers the lower sling slot, so if you want to use it for a 1.25" sling, you're out of luck - you need a 1" wide one.

In summary, it's a definite improvement (IMHO) over the standard carbine stock - it's well made, good looking, more comfy for the cheek and better angle on the butt, plus the accessory tubes add some storage space. With the butterfly latch installed, it's less prone to disengaging from snagging etc. There's room for improvement (as in any product), but it's reasonable for the price, unlike the Crane one.

Vltor's 5-position buffer tube

Clubfoot carbine stock and 'big button' QD sling swivel

Vltor's rubber buttpad

Vltor now makes their own mil-spec dimensioned 5-position carbine buffer tubes. These are beautifully machined, rather than forged like Colt, and are just as strong (if not stronger). A really nice touch is the Vltor logo machined into the back of the tube. Beside it is the clubfoot version of the carbine modstock - it makes a difference when sighting it in from the bench at the range, if you like to support it with a sandbag, or use your offhand to hold the butt against your shoulder. Vltor also offers a rubber buttpad (made by SOG armory) that fits onto all of their stocks, for those who would like a bit of padding or a completely non-slip surface.

Vltor also offers as an accessory full-length compartment tubes for the carbine stock (as seen above). There's approximately 1" longer than the standard tubes and are a direct replacement. They each hold 2 AA's or 3 DL123's. Instead of caps on each end, the rear hole of the compartment is sealed.

VLTOR RIFLE MODSTOCK

Rifle modstock components and accessories	The rifle Modstock will fit on both carbine and standard buffer tubes	Rifle modstock installed on carbine buffer tube in position 'A'	Rifle modstock on carbine	Top view

Rifle modstock and standard buffer tube	Rifle modstock installed on a good ol' circa 1967 Colt SP1lower	A2 length (top) and A1 length rifle modstocks	A2 length (bottom) and A1 length rifle modstocks

Now for the Rifle Modstock (thank you, Eric). The rifle modstock comes in two lengths (A1 and A2) and will fit on BOTH carbine and standard (full length) buffer tubes, which is great news to the post-ban crowd who are stuck with fixed stocks, or to people with fixed stocks that just want to upgrade to something different. The difference in length between the A1 and A2 stocks is 0.68". Now you've got another option to the standard stock, or pinned carbine stocks. The stock illustrated here is the 'clubfoot' version, named for the club-like shape of the butt, which aids in supporting the stock in the shoulder when the hand is placed there in the prone position or shooting off a bench, and the stock is held firmly against the shoulder. The rifle stock comes packaged like the carbine stock, and includes everything necessary for installation. It came with a 1.25" QD sling swivel.

The rifle modstock comes with the same kind of accessory compartments and cheek weld adapters as the carbine stock, only longer. The accessory compartment will fit 3 AA batteries, or 4 DL123's. Combined with a Tangodown Battlegrip, you could end up having more batteries in your real gun than an airsoft one! And no, you can't fit GI cleaning rods in there - I already tried.

I first installed it on a carbine buffer tube (Colt or mil-spec only, please). It can be installed in two postions - the standard length A, and the extended length B, which is .800" longer than A. This is controlled by the manual lock pin (you can store this pin in the accessory compartment), which is inserted at position A or B (see the first pic) and snaps into the stock, engaging either the last or first detents in the buffer tube respectively. In position A, the rifle stock is almost an inch longer than the carbine modstock in the fully extended position. This might be a bit long for shorter people who are using ultra-short eye-relief scopes like the ACOG TA01NSN that I had mounted on mine :-) Any other scope would probably be fine. The rifle stock felt just like the carbine one, except that the cheek piece extended all the way to the front. I mounted the accessory compartments in their most forward positions on the stock, which placed my cheek smack dab in the middle of them. The cheek weld on the carbine was good, but this was even better. Before I installed it, I wasn't sure how it'd look on a carbine, but I think that it looks pretty good!

I then mounted it on a standard buffer tube, which just requires removal of the stock screw to slide off the old stock, and replace it with the rifle modstock (using the stock spacer in the back). The upper on this old Colt SP1 receiver was scoped, and the rifle stock provided the proper eye relief for it. The stock was the most comfortable fixed stock I'd felt (which is not saying much as there really haven't been that many common varieties), shouldering it and testing it out in the prone position with a bipod, and holding it into my shoulder with the club foot. The accessory compartment provides a wide, smooth area for the cheek to rest against. The only other fixed stock that felt like that was the ACR (Advanced Combat Rifle) stock, which I had a chance to feel years ago.

In all, I think that this is a great alternative to the post-ban carbine models that are currently available (standard stock and pinned collapsibles) and a definite improvement in comfort and looks over the standard A2 stock, IMHO.

Black clubfoot carbine with full length tubes	Green standard carbine	Pre-ban complete kit	Rifle standard	Rifle clubfoot	Black, green and brown rifle clubfoots

I've received emails asking whether the Vltor stocks will fit airsoft weapons and I have confirmed that YES, both the carbine and rifle modstocks WILL fit a TM M4 carbine buffer tube with no modifications needed.

MY MODSTOCK MOD

Those of you who know me know that I can't leave anything alone, and if something bothers me about a product, I try to fix or improve it. As mentioned above, the caps are difficult to remove. You have to rotate them (not a prob), but then you have to 'walk' them out by rocking them with the little lever, which provides incorrect leverage for what you're trying to do. I decided to add a tether to the caps. First, to provide something to pull the cap out with, and second, to tether the caps so I don't lose them. Eric, thinking ahead, has molded provisions into the compartment housing for the attachment of tethers. I decided not to use them, as the loops needed to be large enough to accomodate a finger (snag concerns), and I'd need two loops if the caps were tethered to the stock seperately (double snag concerns). Instead, I decided to tether the caps together with one loop, since I'd only be opening one compartment at a time. I drilled a hole through each cap, put a length of 550 cord sheath through them, and tied knots on each end, after determining the best length of the tether. The 550 cords sheath is strong, yet easy on the fingers. I wasn't concerned with affecting the water-tightness of the compartment as it's 'water-resistant', not 'water-proof'. If I wanted to, I could put a drop of sealant inside the cap where the knot is. But since I don't go swimming with my rifle (and if I did, getting batteries wet inside the compartment would be the least of my concerns), and it's doubtful that even the heaviest rain would find its way inside, I didn't bother.
How does my mod work? Pretty well I think. To remove a cap, I slip my finger inside the loop and use it to pull the cap out while I rock it back and forth. The caps are much easier to remove now. And they're tethered. Sure there's a possibility that the loop might snag on something, but it's pretty short and low profile, and in the past year of using it, it has yet to snag anything.

Description - This is the MSS (Modular Stock System), developed by Magpul Industries Corp. It "features a receiver extension tube, which acts as a modular base for a selection of fixed and collapsible stocks." (from the Magpul information sheet). The stock configuration can be changed by the individual soldier without need for an armourer. I don't want to parrot everything from the Magpul site here, so please visit it and read the description of the MSS (pdf. file). My experimental stock (thank you, Richard) came with a very well illustrated installation booklet which made it simple to install in just a few minutes.

Besides being radically different in looks, the MSS differs from all the other collapsible stocks on the market as it offers a consistent and comfortable cheek weld due to the fact that the stock does not fully enclose the buffer tube. The cheek rests on the buffer each time. With most other collapsible stocks, the cheek will sometimes end up half on the stock and half on the buffer, which can be a bit uncomfortable.

Installation - The standard stock and buffer tube are removed. The M9 buffer assembly (aluminum tube with carbon fibre/nylon overmolding) screws onto the back of the receiver just like the standard buffer tube, and a shim is used to ensure that it ends up in the correct orientation (3 shims are supplied). Two 'claw locks' prevent rotation of the buffer tube in the receiver and are very secure once all the bolts are tightened. The installation only took a few minutes and the instructions were very easily to follow. I did not have to make any alterations whatsoever. An ambidextrous single point sling mount was supplied with the stock and I installed it. I'm a lefty, and installed it on the right side of the rifle. It does not interfere with the functioning of the forward assist. The stock buffer and spring assembly is used.

Operation - The M93 stock slides along the buffer tube and can be locked at 7 positions (5 in between fully collapsed and extended). The main lever is unlocked by engaging the small latch (see first pic above) with your finger and pulling backward. The main lever swings down and unlocks the stock. At the desired postition, the lever is pushed forward and up, which locks the stock in postition with an audible 'click'. Two 'preset clips' are supplied with the stock, and allow the user to preset two positions (like the middle 2 positions on a Colt 4-pos stock). With the preset clips installed, the stock will slide back from the fully collapsed postition until it engages a clip. The stock can then be locked there. To 'override' the preset, the preset release button on the side must be depressed when pulling to the stock to the rear. It doesn't take too long to become familiar with the operation of the stock, once you understand how it works.

Initial impressions - Note that my initial impressions are based on the experimental stock, and Richard has refined the design since, for the production model. I found some of the edges a bit sharp, especially around the butt plate. The production stocks will be tumbled and deburred, which will take the edge of the...edges :-P I smoothed out the sharp edges with some 320 grit sandpaper, which took care of that. After the easy installation, I familiarized myself with the operation of the stock. It feels very solid, with no lateral play or looseness at all, even if unlocked. When the lever is locked, it feels as solid as a full-length, one-piece stock. When shouldered, it seats into the shoulder very positively, and feels more comfortable than it looks as it's slightly wider than the standard stock. It does require more dexterity to extend and collapse than the standard/Vltor stocks, however, and isn't as 'straightforward'. But training/muscle memory can address that issue, and I'll see how I do with practice (the small buttons on the experimental will be made larger and easier to work on the production model). The cheek weld on the overmolded buffer tube and part of the stock feels good, and doesn't have the annoying 'step' from stock to buffer tube inherent in the other designs.

I haven't played with it enough yet, so I'll add to this section as I get more experience with it. Like anything else, some people will like the looks of it, some won't. It looks more complicated than some other designs, but the features are there for a reason. Modular accessories and rails can be mounted to the stock in the future, and the same buffer tube will be used. The lower part of the stock is removable and different 'modules' can be substituted for the standard buttplate. More to come...

For more opinions, check out Jeff Carpenter's reviews of this stock system and other good info here.

LMT/Crane stock

7/17/04 - This is the much-anticipated (by some) LMT Crane stock. Originally designed and made by NSWC, Crane division, and seen on the weapons of Navy SEALs and DEVGRU members in pics coming back from 'Stan and Iraq for the past couple of years. The Crane is longer than the standard CAR Stock, and has a triangular main section, which houses an accessory compartment on each side. In each compartment is a tube with an O-ring sealed cap. The tubes slide into the commpartments and the caps are rotated to lock the tubes in place. Installation and removal of the tubes require removal of the stock from the buffer tube. The butt plate is vertical and has a removable rubber buttpad. The LMT Crane took care of some of the reported problems which the original Crane stocks had, without changing the overall design.

Installation and removal procedure of the Crane stock is that of the standard stock. Pull down on the latch so that the latch pin clears the buffer tube and slide it off. It's wobble-free on mil-spec buffer tubes. LMT chose to checker the stock latch, which further increases potential for snagging and accidental release. I replaced it with a Vltor butterfly latch (shown below) which improves functioning of the stock IMHO, and looks just as good as the standard latch. It's easy to operate and is less likely to get snagged or inadvertantly relesed - I highly recommend that any stock that will accept the Vltor butterfly latch be upgraded with it.

Cheek weld is very nice with the Crane - probably the best of the conventional collapsible stocks. I'm torn on the rubber buttplate - I like the comfort and feel of it, but it might get in the way during transitions. I'd also like to see and angle put on the buttplate, like the Vltor's. See the comparison below for additional impressions of the LMT Crane...

Comparison of the Standard, MSS, Crane and Vltor stocks

Here's a visual comparison of the standard Colt carbine stock, Magpul MSS and Vltor Carbine stock. I'll post a review when after I spend more time using the MSS and Vltor stocks, and take them out to the range/wherever to put them through their paces. And I'll also have to add the Vltor Rifle Modstock to that list.

June '03 - Been to the range, the desert (see above pics) and took a tactical carbine class and shot both the M93 and Vltor stocks. The disk with all my pics taken during the carbine class had an error on it , so I think I've lost them. Anyways - range shooting off the bench: No big difference - both stocks felt comfortable and were perfectly stable. Shooting in the desert: I shot the M93 and the wide butt felt very comfortable in the shoulder pocket when shooting at a longer range. Switching to an under-the-chin hold for closer shooting/movement, and the sharp edge on the bottom was a bit uncomfortable when snapping the rifle up from the high ready position. Actually, that's exactly the same thing I experienced with the Vltor in the carbine class. For CQB use, I'd prefer a slightly shorter buttplate, with a rounded off toe for better rolling into position. Most people like the look of both stocks, but commented that the M93 was a bit complex for them and they were worried about small parts jamming or the details being mud traps. But when it came to shooting, I'd like to say I noticed a huge difference, but I really didn't. BOTH stocks were improvements in comfort, rigidity and feel over the standard carbine stock, IMHO. You can't go wrong with either - like many things, it'll end up being personal preference.

7/17/04 - LMT Crane stock added to the line-up. As you can see, closed length of the Crane is longer than standard and close to that of the MSS. Cheek weld on the Crane is probably the most comfortable, as its greater length allows it to be used in a more-closed position, which decreases the likelyhood that your cheek will be half on the stock and half on the buffer tube.

The MSS buttpad has the greatest surface area, followed by the Crane, Vltor then standard CAR stocks. I prefer the angled buttplate of the Vltor to the Crane, and the fact that the stock doesn't have to be removed to access the compartments. Also, the compartments of the Crane are non-removable. There are always pros and cons to each stock, and arguments and counter-arguments can be made for all of them. It all boils down to personal preference and which one works best for the user.

I was contacted by Ferdie from FERFRANS who provides weapons system to the Special Action Force (SAF) of the Philippine National Police, and some U.S. SWAT teams. FERFRANS selects off-the-shelf M-16 components from manufacturers like Bushmaster and A.R.M.S. and puts together packages tailored for use in the Philippines. However, some U.S. law enforecement agencies are taking interest and have purchased some of their systems - mostly their M4 variant called the SOAR. They also offer a Designated Marksman Rifle, Sniper Rifle, and PDW (ultra short M2 M-16's for CQB and close protection). The thing that sets their weapons apart from all others is their proprietary/patented RRS (Rate Reduction System). I signed a non-disclosure agreement, so all I can say is that IT WORKS. Extremely well. I was very impressed with it. Any M-16 variant can utilize their system and the ROF will be reduced from about 800 down to the mid 500's.
I brought along my M4 upper with KAC MRE and LMT SOPMOD carrier to function test it on FA (I had only fired it on semi up till now). I also had a Beta C-Mag and a Chinese 120 round drum, which I had modified slightly to function. Chinese drums haven't had a good repuatation for reliability, and mine was no different, not even functioning on semi. A little bit of filing and smoothing out burrs here and there and it now runs like a champ. Ferdie brought along a couple of his M4s (14.5 and 11.5 barrels), and a couple of M2 Corp ultra-shortys (6 and 8.4" barrels). He also had a Bushmaster Carbon pistol upper to test. I shot about 500 rounds through all the guns there, using the Beta C-mag, Chinese drum and standard 30 rnd GI mags, all on FA. The RRS enabled me to fire singles and doubles with ease. The combination of lower cyclic rate and Smith muzzle brakes made all the weapons amazingly controllable and easy to keep on target. No muzzle jump/climb whatsoever. Even the ultra-shorties. I smoked 100 rounds through the Beta with my upper, and then tried his RRS. The slower ROF didn't heat the gun up as quickly and the difference in control was immediate.
The piece of crap Chinese drum functioned flawlessly, while the expensive Beta mag had some problems with the ultra compacts. The LMT SOPMOD carrier and bolt also functioned without a hitch. The Bushmaster Carbon pistol upper would not function even on semi. A definite no-go.
Anyone who uses an M16 would benefit from the FERFRANS RRS. However, they sell only complete systems to Military/Law Enforcement only, not to civilians, at this time, so it is unavailable to the general shooting public.

My upper on a Bushy M16 lower	Shooting the cheap yet reliable Chinese 120 rnd drum	The expensive and not-so-reliable Beta C-mag	FERFRANS SOAR rifle
	PDW8	PDW6

10/9/04 - Went out with Ferdie to demo the rate reducer to a not-so-local SWAT team out in the desert. Had a great time burning up some ammo with some real nice guys, including officer JT, who had initally contacted me about some gear questions. They also brought out a Ranger Body Armour plate that we shot at - check out the pics here. Thanks to officer JT and his team for being such accomodating hosts.

6/19/04 - Troy Industries (who makes the MFR on the previous page) also offers their own sling for their CQB carbines. It's called the CQBSPS (Close Quarter Battle Single Point Sling) and like other single point slings, it's a essentially a single loop of webbing attached to the rifle at a single point. The CQBSPS offers a couple of unique features - a short adjustable strap that allows the position of the rifle on the chest to be determined, and a non-slip shoulder pad. The sling is attached to the rifle by a HK-style snap hook, and needs a recevier plate (either for the snap hook or a sling loop). It works with both my GG&G and Daniel Defense plates. The snap hook is covered by black elastic to minimze scratching of the rifle. The attach point, however, will get the finish worn off with use. If you're a stickler about that, make a double loop of 550 cord on the recevier loop and attach the snap hook to that instead. The webbing used is heavy, 1.5" wide, and the sling is available in black, tan and OD. The 2.5" wide shoulder pad has a rubbery, non-slip material on its underside, to ensure that the sling does not move on the shoulder. The webbing is not free to slide inside the pad, as the length adjustment triglide is captured in a slot on the pad. The loose and of the webbing is folded back and tucked inside the pad.

The sling can be worn two ways (like any other single point sling) - with the pad on the strong or weak shoulder. I'm left handed, so righties will reverse the setup shown in the pics. The Troy instructions recommend wearing it with the pad on the weak shoulder (shown below). The short strap is adjusted to position the rifle at the height on the chest desired, and when there is need to clear the weapon for transition, the tab is pulled downwards, allowing the rifle to slide down the sling. I found that the strap was difficult to pull when there was tension on the sling, and that it was easier to rotate the whole sling and pad forwards to allow the weapon to hang at the side. Worn on the weak shoulder (offside carry), however, clearing the weapon to the side could cause interference with the sidearm during a transition. It's probably better to let it hang in the vertical position from the middle of the chest in this case.

Worn with the pad on the strong shoulder (strongside carry), clearing the weapon to the side puts it on the opposite side of the secondary weapon, and out of the way. This is usually how I wear my single point slings. The only issue with wearing it this way is that the pad can sometimes interfere with the butt of the rifle (right pic). Again, I find it easier to rotate the whole sling around my body instead of pulling on the short strap to clear the weapon down and to the side.

The sling is overbuilt to last, and the shoulder pads makes a difference in comfort. I'm undecided on whether to wear it over the strong or weak shoulder, so I'll experiment more with that. I usually wear single point slings over the weak shoulder to allow the rifle to hang on my weak side. Used either way, it's a comfortable and sturdy sling platform. Personally, I'd like to see a couple of options added to future Troy CQBSPS offerings - an ERB (emergency release buckle), and the option to use attachments other than the HK-style snap hook. The HK hook is not the quickest to release in an emergency, and next to impossible if the weapon is being pulled away from you if snagged. An ERB is one of those 'good to have and not need' vs. 'need and not have' things. A 1.25" wide strap with triglide instead of the sewn-in HK hook will be more universal and allow the use of the HK hook, QD swivels, or just direct attachment to a receiver sling loop. Troy Industries makes good products and they're expanding their product line rapidly - stuff to look forward to.
6/27/04 - I've removed the short strap from the sling to use it that way, and it works fine without it. I'm using it slung over the strong shoulder.

We've all discussed the pros and cons of single point, 2-pt and 3-pt slings, and everyone has their own fave sling and setup. It seems that there isn't one 'perfect' setup, and I've been experimenting, trying to find something that addresses some of the issues that people (or me) have with either type. I think I've come up with a solution that combines the best of both worlds (single point and 3-pt).
I used a conventional 3-pt sling using the front sling attach point and single point sling attach point at the rear of the receiver as my two points, and also added a piece of shock cord - I'm dubbing it the 'MM Sling Mod' (MMSM) since it's really a modification and different setup, not a new sling. See pics...

It handles very similar to a single point sling, as the buttstock is free to transition from shoulder to shoulder, but the 3-pt keeps it from becoming a pendulum, and keeps it closer to the body when you let go of it.
Now, i've used the CQB solutions SOP sling with the transition release buckle (similar to the GRSC sling) and when the buckle is released to create the slack necessary to transition, the sling gets so long that it no longer functions as it did before, and is not quick to return to its original length.
Instead of the TRB, I substituted a loop of shock cord (black 1/8" diameter shock cord available at REI or most outdoor/climbing stores), which keeps the sliding buckle near the front attach point during normal carry. 'Normal' carry is sling over the strong side for a muzzle-down carry (as opposed to 'patrol carry' with the sling over the weak side and weapon more horizontal). The size of the shock cord loop is about 6" (made from a 13" length of shock cord, accounting for the knot). The length of the sling is adjusted to just allow shouldering on the weak side. To transition, the weapon is pushed forward (stretching the shock cord and lengthening the sling) while the buttstock is rotated up and over the sling to the weak shoulder. The sling then returns to its original length once you transition back, or let it hang - no buckles to unsnap, or resnap.

Just thought i'd share my experiment - not trying to say it's any better than anyone else's - just something different to try out. So far, it's working better than either a 3-pt or single pt for lil' old me.

5/22/04 - Finally completed a project I started a couple of weeks ago - painting an AR. I had initially planned on just painting it sand colour, but then decided to take on the challenge of painting a MARPAT desert pattern instead. I had wanted a painted carbine that I could kick around and not worry about babying the finish of. I also wanted something lightweight and with the bare minimum mounted to it. I picked my oldest receiver to paint - an SP1 circa 1967 (hence the offset, double screw takedown). I figured I wouldn't be switching uppers on a painted receiver very often. I built a flattop with a Colt 16" pencil barrel, stole the RIS off another upper, and bought some new components for this project - replica Crane stock, PRI high Aimpoint mount, and LMT rear BUIS. I painted a Surefire 6P with shock proof bezel mounted in a Leupold QRW 1" ring on a Yankee-Hill angle mount. Tangodown rail panels complete the project.

I used Aervoe brand enamel spray paint (except for the grey and clearcoat). It'll scratch a bit and wear with use, but I don't care. Adds character. For a template, I drew a grid on heavy art paper, designed my pattern (using my MARPAT bdu's as a reference), and cut it out with an x-acto knife. I used the larger template for sand and grey (grey primer, actually), and the smaller one for earth brown and field drab. I put two base coats of sand, let that dry, then did the patterns. I dusted a light coat of sand to blend the colours in. Two clear coats of matte Krylon finished it off. It wasn't too much work - but there was a lot of drying time. I allowed at least a week for the paint to cure before assembling the different components.

9/22/04 - Went out to the range and took some 'field' pics.

CJ Weapons is run by Master Sergeant Jon Morgan USMC (retired) and carries accessories for the shooter for various weapons systems. One of their products is the Lightning Mag loader/unloader which fits the FAL, M1A, AR10, HK91 and CETME magazines in 7.62mm. It is used for the charging of magazines with pre-loaded 10 round stripper clips. Unlike GI stripper clips for the M16, which uses brass tabs at the ends to secure the rounds, these stripper clips are spring loaded at the ends, so there are no brass tabs that break off after a few uses. The loader is put on the magazine, a loaded stripper clip inserted from the top, and ram rod used to push down and charge the mag. Quick and easy. The magnet on the ram rod extracts the stripper clip from the loader. For unloading, the back end of the ram rod is used to push out the rounds from behind.
I tried this out on a few different FAL mags (metric), and the fit was a bit tight due to the front tab on the mag. There is a corresponding groove in the loader body for this tab and with use, it'll wear and I'm sure it'll be easier to slip on and off. Loading was simple - throw the loaded stripper clip in there and insert the ram rod, and push.
It's a good tool to use if you want to save time at the range. Just pre-load a bunch of stripper clips while you're watching TV at home. Or carry it with a resupply of ammo on stripper clips in a small pack in the field. Contact Jon at weaponCJ@aol.com or visit his site if you're interested.