3/7/08 - Triple Aught Design's (TAD Gear) new 'Green Label" (natural fibers) Stealth Coat is patterned similarly to their Ranger Fleece Hoodie and Stealth Hoodie soft shells shown above, but with a twist. Instead of being constructed out of synthetic fleece or the latest soft shell material, it's made out of 500 gram New Zealand Merino Melton wool. Similar in weight to the familiar Navy Pea Coat, TAD intended the Stealth Coat to be a modern take on the classic car coat or hunting jacket.

New Zealand Merino Melton - TAD Gear is introducing more styles and garments this year in merino wool because of the many benefits of this natural material. Wool is naturally fire resistant, breathable, durable, used in both hot and cold climates, odour and static resistant, and will keep you warm even when wet. Melton wool is a classic fabric typically used for winter jackets, coats and blankets. It's thick and tightly woven, with a heavily brushed nap with no warp and weft (weave) visible, like felt. The 500 gram 19 micron Merino Melton is very dense, and currently available only in TAD's D.F. (Dark Field) Grey. The Stealth Coat is actually a medium-dark grey, whereas the D.F. Ranger Hoodie is pretty much black. As I've mentioned in previous reviews of wool garments, I have very sensiitve skin and fall in the small percentage of people that can find even Merino wool scratchy. However, this is not the case with the Stealth Coat - I don't find it itchy or irritating on my bare skin at all, which is a relief as it's a nice coat. A micron count for the individual wool fiber thickness is typically required to be under 19.5 micron for it to be itch free. TAD's is 19, which puts it in the middle of the industry classification for 'fine' Merino of 18.6-19.5.

Sizing - Usually I deal with sizing at the end, but wanted to make sure people see this before ordering. Somehow, the run of Stealth Coats ended up with the wrong tags, and are labeled one size down. The Stealth Coat is cut generously for wear over thick winter layers, and I'd say it's about one and a half sizes larger than marked, if used as a stand-alone jacket with thin layers underneath. I'm usually a size 'Medium', as are my Ranger and Stealth Hoodies. The coat I'm wearing here is labeled 'Small'. Even so, it's still roomier than the Ranger Hoodie. One of the reasons for the more generous cut is that the Melton wool has practically no stretch to it. This is noticeable in the wrist cuffs, as they're cut long enough to cover the hands when the thumbholes are used, but not elastic enough to be retained at the wrist. I'd have preferred velcro adjustment tabs to keep them at my wrists, but found that the issue was easily solved by folding the cuffs back once. So, make sure you order one size smaller than you normally do, at least. More about sizing further down.

Coat with thumbholes in use

Cuffs rolled up once

Hi-rise chest pockets

At first glance, the Stealth Coat is easily dismissed as a clone of the Ranger Hoodie, made in wool instead of fleece. However, closer examination of the details reveals that it also shares elements with the Stealth Hoodie, and even so, not quite exaclty. So, it's actually a blend of both jackets with some features unique to itself.

Hood up

Rear duck pocket

Hood closeup

Mesh lining

Hood adjustments

Chest pocket interior

• Upper sleeve velcro swatches - These are located on the sleeve pockets and measure 4" x 4".
• Upper sleeve pockets - The upper sleeve pockets measure about 7" tall x 6.5" wide.
• D-ring keepers in pockets - The upper sleeve pockets and chest pockets all have plastic D-ring keepers sewn to elastic at the back of the pocket, for dummy cording critical items from loss.
• Media Pass-through slots in pockets - The Stealth Coat has the same media pass through slots as the other TAD jackets for headphone/cell phone cords. There's also the small loop on the inside of the left collar for wire retention.
• Thumbhole Cuffs - The cuffs are of the Ranger Hoodie design, with the thumb holes for keeping the back of your hands warm and to prevent the sleeves from riding up. The sleeves are 1" longer to accomodate this feature. Gloves can be worn over or under the cuff. Because the Melton wool is not stretchy, the cuffs are a bit loose and cover my hands. I'd rather have a velcro wrist tab so I can tighten the cuff around my wrist to seal out the wind if I'm not using the thumbholes. As I mentioned above, turning back the cuff once solves that issue.
• Reinforced elbows - Double-layer elbows via a reinforcing patch. Cushion most of the forearm as well.
• Bias cut bottom hem with cord locked draw cord - The back of the jacket is cut longer in the back and there are elastic draw cord locks on both sides to seal out the wind.

Upper sleeve pocket

Rear duck pocket

Inside of coat back showing Duck pocket

Reinforced elbow

Compared to the fleece Ranger Hoodie, the Stealth Coat definitely has a more 'urban' than 'outdoors/military' look to it, because of the way the Melton wool drapes. It tends to have straighter lines, for a smarter look. The Stealth Coat is a slightly heavier jacket, but a little less warm than the Ranger as it has less loft due to the denser material. However, due the the breathability of the wool fibers themselves, you're less likely to get stuffy when you sweat than with a synthetic fleece top (synthetic fibers do not soak up moisture - they wick it away. Wool fibers actually absorb moisture).

Now, the care label on the Stealth Coat says 'dry clean only'. I usually shy away from high-maintenance clothing. If it's meant to be worn outdoors, sweated in and expected to get dirty, 'dry clean' only doesn't work for me. I decided to be the guinea pig and see what would happen if I machine washed and dried the Stealth Coat. Now, wool is notorious for shrinking when exposed to the combination of wet, heat and agitation. I decided not to try the warm/cold wash cycle, but to just use the cold cycle, mainly to get it soaking wet. I also chose the 'gentle/delicate' cycle. Note that I have a front loading machine, not a top loader/agitator. I would not recommend using an agitation washing machine for this. After the cycle, I checked it out, saw no visible damage or change, and threw it in the dryer with a fabric softener sheet on 'medium' heat. I let it go for about 20 mins, and checked on it again. It didn't seem to shrink at all, and still looked fine. I cranked it to the 'high heat/cotton' setting and let it run for another 20 mins. When it was dry, I took it out and checked it over. The result - I'd estimate about 5% shrinkage with no bunching or damage to the fabric or components. I put it on and it doesn't fit as baggy anymore, and fit me better than before. The sleeves and wrist cuffs are a bit snugger and maybe 0.5" shorter than they were. Note that all the photos above were taken before I washed and dried the coat. I don't think you'd notice the difference in photos, but I can feel it in the fit.
Like all wool garments after a wash, it's barely noticeably more 'fuzzy' than when brand new. Another side benefit is that it's also softer and even more comfortable than before. So there you have it, it's possible to machine wash and dry the Stealth Coat, and shrink it a little without damage (at least using the same settings and machine that I used).
i'm not recommending you do the same thing I did (and neither does TAD) and ignore the manufacturer's care label - this is just FYI and you're on your own. Use your own judgement. Don't come blamin' me if you accidentally put yours in the hot/cold cycle in a top-loading machine and end up with a GI Joe-sized mini-coat. That being said, I'm glad I did it and will repeat what I did the next time it needs washing.

So, if you're looking for something along the lines of the Ranger Hoodie, but prefer TAD's 'Green Label' line of natural fibers, the Stealth Coat offers an option. With its urban cut and colour, and the 'classier' look and drape of Merino Melton Wool, you'll get a coat that doesn't look out of place downtown, but also has the typical TAD technical features and extras that make it a practical piece in the outdoors. Just make sure you understand the sizing before you order.

3/21/08 - Triple Aught Design's (TAD Gear) new 'Green Label" (natural fibers) Merino Wool Garments are part of their A.C.E. (A.ll C.limate E.lementals) layering system, which describes their highly versatile, component apparel system. Each piece the ACE system represents a component in an overall total system that can be worn autonomously or as part of layering combination. The ACE System offers performance and functionality from base and mid layers to outerwear. Featured here are three items from the ACE system: the Regulator Base layers, Equilibrium Full Zip Sweater, and the Flux Pullover Hoodie. All are made from Merino Wool.

New Zealand Extra Fine Merino Wool - TAD Gear has introduced more styles and garments this year in merino wool because of the many benefits of this natural material. Wool is naturally fire resistant, breathable, durable, used in both hot and cold climates, odour and static resistant, and will keep you warm even when wet. It will not melt or stick to when exposed to flame. The ACE system components are currently available in TAD's M.E. Green and D.F. (Dark Field) Grey (almost black). As I've mentioned in previous reviews of wool garments, I have very sensiitve skin and fall in the small percentage of people that can find even Merino wool scratchy. However, TAD's merino products have the least amount of itch (none to almost none) that I've experienced with any merino wool product. This is due to the fine micron thickness of the extra/super fine merino wool selected for these garments. With some other merino wool garments I've used, there'd usually be some hint of itch until my skin got used to it. Much less so with the the TAD wool garments.

Regulator Base Layers - The Regulator Base Layers are made of the highest grade of super-fine merino wool for next-to-skin comfort, combined with 5.5% lycra for stretch. This is the softest merino wool used out of all TAD's wool garments, for a body-hugging but unrestriced fit for mobility. I'd liken the weight to most other silk weight base layers. The Regulator layers shown here are in M.E. Green, which is a very close match for the issue Nomex flight gloves, only a hint lighter. The weave is fine, and absolutely no hint of prickliness at all, which is unusual for a wool garment (for me). They could be made of synthetics, as far as my skin is concerned.

Top - The Regulator Top has a zip mock neck using a covert YKK zipper, and has a 5.5" x 3.5" trapezoidal zippered chest pocket for small items. The collar is not tight around my neck when fully zipped up - there's still some breathing room. The bottom hem is cut slightly longer in the back for tucking in. As you can see from the photos below (size Medium shown), the fit is strreamlined to hug the body without being too tight. The cuffs have thumbholes so the sleeves don't ride up when donning additional layers or lifting your arms above your head. You can choose not to use the thumbholes, and the cuffs will function just like normal ones.

Bottom - The Regulator Bottom is a full length cut with fly opening, and diamond crotch. The non-binding elastic waist looks sturdy and is wide enough to be comfortable on the waist. I wore the bottom under a pair of Force 10 Cargo utility pants back in early February, on a cold and windy night in the Nevada desert. It really made a difference between freezing and feeling comfortable.

Regulator top

Mock zip collar and zip chest pocket

Thumb hole cuff

Regulator bottom

Pant ankle cuffs

Pant diamond crotch

Equilibrium Full Zip Sweater - The Equilibrium Full Zip Sweater, shown in D.F. Grey below, is a front opening sweater/cardigan. It's designed to be worn on its own, or as a mid layer under a soft or hard shell as part of the ACE layering system. It's made of 360 gm weight 100% merino (no lycra), and is of an all-season, flat knit pattern which is a heavier/thicker weave than the Regulator base layers. It has low nap and is pill resistant. The merino wool used in the Equilibrium isn't as super fine as the Regulator Base Layer wool, but I still find it very comfortable for a wool garment. I'm able to wear it next to my hyper-sensitive skin with only the occasional hint of prick on my neck and crook of my elbows (which seems the most susceptible area to get irritated).

The Equilibrium uses black YKK covert zippers, and the full zip allows for easy donning and doffing, plus heat management. The collar is 5" tall, and forms a turtleneck when fully zipped up. It has a wind flap behind the zipper. It can be folded over for a half-height turtleneck, or just worn open. On the left upper chest is a trapezoidal pocket with vertical covert zipper closure for small items. The elbows are reinforced with elbow patches.

The wool is dense, and doesn't have a lot of loft, so it's not bulky when worn under another jacket. It's got sort of a straight, urban cut; not too snug or form fitting. It doesn't look at all 'military' to me, especially in D.F. Grey. Loose enough to wear over a base layer but not baggy. I'd estimate the warmth to be equivalent to a mid-weight sweat shirt (not a thick, heavy one).

Equilibrium, collar open

Collar zipped up

Collar turned down

Front zip and chest pocket

Reinforced elbows

Flux Pullover Hoodie - At first glance, the Flux Pullover Hoodie might be mistaken for a merino wool version of TAD's fleece Scout Hoodie, but it's actually patterned very differently. It's made of 360gm weight, pill resistant flat knit New Zealand Merino wool, like the Equilibrium. Because of the pattern/cut, it 'drapes' more than the Equilibirum, for a more relaxed look. The merino wool construction makes it a very sharp looking hoodie, and the M.E. Green (shown here) is a very pleasant colour. I also found it completely itch-free.

The Flux isn't as loose as the Scout Hoodie, and can be worn over a shirt, alone, or under any of TAD's jackets for additional insulation as part of the ACE system. Wear it under the Predator hardshell in the rain, or with the V8 Garage jacket for an urban-chic look. It's go a very comfortable cut for an unrestricted fit. The Flux has TAD's signature Aero hood design, without any adjustments of course. I think the overlapping takeoff points at the front of the hood/collar add to its unique look. The sleeves have thumbhole cuffs which are snug enough to keep the hand warm, and also stay around the wrists when the thumbhole feature isn't used. The elbows are reinforced with patches.

At the front is the kangaroo pocket, with a small mesh ID hideout pocket in the middle (which fits a small Rite-in-the-rain notebook). The inside entrance to the kangaroo pockets are lined with a soft material for comfort. Like the Equilibrium, I'd estimate the warmth of the Flux to be similar to a medium-weight sweatshirt. It's a bit heavier than the fleece Scout Hoodie, but more wind resistant, so I actually found it a bit warmer than the Scout when there was a cool breeze blowing.

Front kangaroo pocket

Hood up

Aero hood down

Hood details

Size of ID hideout pocket

Thumbhole cuffs and reinforced elbows

The Merino wool garments tend to be slightly heavier and more dense than their synthetic equivalents, like base layers or lightweight fleece. However, due the the breathability of the wool fibers themselves, you're less likely to get stuffy when you sweat than with a synthetic fleece top (synthetic fibers do not soak up moisture - they wick it away. Wool fibers actually absorb moisture). One potential disadvantage I see to wool is that it's heavier than synthetic garments when soaking wet and takes longer to dry. Again, this is because the wool fibers are hydrophilic and absorb moisture more readily than synthetic ones. Dunk a wool garment into water with a synthetic one, squeeze out the excess water and compare the weights and you'll see. With a thin base layer however, it's pretty much a non-issue.

As most of us know, wool can shrink. You don't just throw it in the hot/cold cycle with the rest of the clothes and dry it on high. The tags recommend a cold gentle cycle when machine washing, and laying them flat to dry. However, I'd found that I can machine dry these wool garments on the air only or low heat setting without them shrinking if I'm in a hurry and don't want to lay them out.
As I mentioned above, TAD's merino wool is the least (or non) prickly/itchy of any wool garment I've worn. There's something about the luxury, denseness and drape of wool garments that give them a touch of class that synthetics don't have. If you prefer natural fiber garments combined with high-tech features and designs, TAD's got you covered.

6/14/08 - Triple Aught Design's (TAD Gear) Pathfinder Cardigan Jacket is part of their new Pathfinder Series of low weight and warmth to weight ratio 3+ season everyday wear. With the Pathfinder Jacket, TAD has taken the latest fabrics and technology in the outdoor clothing industry and engineered an extremely comfortable jacket. It's sort of a 'hybrid' or in-between' garment; when the Ranger Hoodie is too warm and a T-shirt is not enough. Consider it a full zip technical replacement for the sweatshirt with added utility.

Material - The Pathfinder Cardigan is made out of Malden Mills PolarTec Thermalpro fleece, which offers excellent comfort, low weight, breathability, appearance, and warmth to weight ratio. The outside of the fabric has a knit texture making it look more like a traditional wool garment. This gives it a more unique and 'classy' look, if you will. The inside face has a pebbled/shearling fleece texture. Note that this is not windbloc fleece - it is not wind resistant. This makes it extremely breathable and usable during exertion during cooler weather as a slight breeze will help speed up sweat evaporation. It it's too cold and windy, a wind shirt can be worn over the Pathfinder to take full advantage of its insulating properties. This fleece weight makes the Pathfinder ideal for everyday wear in 3+ seasons, as outerwear or for layering under TAD's soft and hardshells. The Pathfinder is available in M.E. Green (shown here), DF Grey, and ME Brown.

The Pathfinder also utilizes Bemis Thermmoplastic construction (welded seam tape) with TAD Gear Sharkskin softshell fabric for the upper sleeve pocket and hand warmer pocket reinforcements.

Overall, the Pathfinder Cardigan has a very smart, subdued look to it. The material is completely matte. I don't think it looks overtly 'military', and would look at home in the outdoors, around town, or with military gear alike.

Unzipped

Collar up

The Pathfinder Cardigan Jacket has a full front zip and 3" stand-up collar. The fit is like the Stealth Softshells - relaxed, but with an athletic cut. The Pathfinder is something that you'd wear over a T-shirt or thin base layer; it's not really cut to fit over thick layers. The fleece material isn't bulky, so it's suitable as a mid layer under wind and waterproof shells. There's a small velcro patch near the waist with one of TAD's removable logos.

Hand warmer pockets

Thumbhole cuffs

Inner and outer fabric texture

Collar detail

Cuff and right sleeve

Upper sleeve pocket

Hand warmer pocket and removable logo

• Upper sleeve velcro swatch - This is located on the upper right sleeve measures 4" x 4".
• Upper sleeve pocket - There is an upper sleeve pocket on the left bicep and measures about 5" tall x 4" wide. The pocket is made of a patch of Sharskin Softshell fabric laminated directly to the fleece - it's not sewn on. Likewise, the zipper is laminated as well.
• Media Pass-through slots in sleeve pocket - The upper sleeve pocket has the same PVC (rubberized) media pass through slots as the other TAD jackets for headphone/cell phone cords. There's also the small loop on the inside of the left collar for wire retention.
• Thumbhole Cuffs - The cuffs are of the Ranger Hoodie design, with the thumb holes for keeping the back of your hands warm and to prevent the sleeves from riding up. The sleeves are 1" longer to accomodate this feature. Gloves can be worn over or under the cuff. The cuff is slightly elastic, so it sits at the wrist when the thumbholes aren't being used without covering the back of the hand.

At the range

The Pathfinder Jacket is probably one of the most comfortable fleece garments I've worn - it's very soft, lightweight, and unrestrictive. Even at home in the evening when it's cool, I find myself reaching for it instead of a sweatshirt as it's so damn comfy. Outside, as mentioned above, it's not really wind resistant, so there are pros and cons to that, obviously. You're much less likely to feel stuffy or overheat in the Pathfinder than a windblock fleece during exertion and it's comfortable up to the mid 70's if you're just lounging around.
In the photos above (at the range), I was running around and temps were in the low to mid 60's. It was overcast that day, so the jacket shows up more bluish than it is. Because of its practicality, good looks, and added utility, I predict that the Pathfinder is going to be a favourite go-to garment for those who purchase it, and those sweatshirts are going to find themselves sitting in the closet more and more.